What’s the one skincare concern that you’ve struggled with for years? Mine has always been my dark spots, and I’ve tried pretty much everything under the sun – your typical “dark spot” serums, exfoliation, tretinoin, and even PicoWay Laser, but guess what, some of these stubborn spots are still here!
Now you know I love my custom tretinoin prescription from Curology, but did you know they have a sister brand Agency that specializes in customized anti-aging and dark spot formulas? After testing the latter for 3 months, I’m ready to share my results!
Table of Contents
Overview
What is it
A personalized dark spot corrector designed to work alongside your multitasking Future Formula. Help fade areas of darkened skin such as melasma, sunspots and other types of hyperpigmentation with active ingredients selected for your unique skin.
Best suited for
Any skin type struggling with stubborn pigmentation that doesn’t seem to fade with typical brightening formulas.
Things to note
Alcohol-free and fragrance-free! If you have any ingredient allergies you can discuss with the dermatology provider so they can prescribe a suitable formula or recommend alternative options.
Packaging
A minimal gray airless pump bottle. Your formula will be printed on a sticker, and it may take a few extra pumps initially to dispense the product. You can learn more about Agency’s bottle design here.
Scent
Fragrance-free with no noticeable scent.
Texture
A somewhat dense lotion but with no heaviness or oiliness. If you’ve tried the Curology formula it’s a similar texture!
Finish
Absorbs well and leaves a smooth, almost matte finish. I had no issue with pilling either.
Price & Size
$26 per month for 18g directly from Agency. You can save $10 per month if you bundle with their anti-aging Future Formula!
Product Demo
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Agency Dark Spot Formula Ingredients
Aqua, Cetearyl alcohol, Polysorbate 60, Isohexadecane, Isododecane, C13-15 alkane, Glyceryl stearate, PEG-75 stearate, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Polyurethane-39, Stearyl behenate, Cetyl alcohol, Tocopheryl acetate, Ascorbic acid, Sodium Bisulfite, Benzoic acid (0.09%), Sorbic acid (0.09%), Propanediol, Butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT)
Nothing special about the base, though I am surprised to see Vitamin C in the form of ascorbic acid here! However I doubt the % is high enough to have a significant impact.
Possible Active Ingredients
After sharing your specific skin concerns, medical history, and skincare goals in your quiz, your provider will prescribe a combination of 4 of the following active ingredients at custom strengths:
- Hydroquinone – One of the best dark spot treatments that works by stopping the synthesis of melanin (pigment) in the skin. However it may cause side effects like dryness and redness, and it may make pigmentation worse if used incorrectly. It’s also not pregnancy-safe.
- Hydrocortisone – Often found in OTC products to treat itching and inflammation, it can also be used to treat conditions like eczema and psoriasis.1 While it has no skin brightening benefits, its anti-inflammatory nature can help your skin adjust to the other actives and minimize irritation when first starting out.
- Kojic acid – This works to prevent the formation of tyrosine, which is a required component to create melanin, It’s also found to have some antioxidant benefits!2
- Azelaic acid – A superstar ingredient that provides a wide range of benefits: anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory, and skin-brightening. Multiple studies found that 20% azelaic acid is comparable or more effective than various strengths of hydroquinone in treating melasma!3,4,5
- Resveratrol – An antioxidant found in plants like red grapes (and also my excuse to drink red wine!). It’s a well studied ingredient that has anti-aging and anti-inflammatory benefits.6 In terms of skin brightening, multiple studies found that 1% resveratrol was effective in reducing UV induced pigmentation.7
- Green tea extract (epigallocatechin gallate) – Another fantastic antioxidant with anti-inflammatory benefits! Agency specifically uses epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) which is an active component in green tea extract responsible for its great features. EGCG has been found to fade discoloration by helping reduce the production of melanin!8
Overall a really great selection of well researched ingredients. You may be wondering why niacinamide and tranexamic acid are missing, especially since they both have skin brightening benefits as well. They can actually found in Agency’s Future Formula that focuses on a variety of aspects of anti-aging, from wrinkles to fine lines to age spots.
How To Use Your Dark Spot Formula
- Unless otherwise noted by your provider, apply a thin layer to affected areas after applying your moisturizer, twice a day.
- If you only have a few small spots, you can use a q-tip to spot treat.
- Make sure to always follow up with sunscreen in the morning!
Notes
When first starting your treatment, avoid actives like retinoids, vitamin c (ascorbic acid), AHAs, and BHAs until your skin has adjusted to the formula. This helps minimize potential irritation.
My Experience & Results
I’ll be honest, I started using my Agency Formula with no expectations, not because I don’t trust the brand, my spots are just that stubborn! Based on my needs, I was prescribed the following:
10% Azelaic acid + 4% Kojic acid + 1% Resveratrol + 2% Green tea extract
(ingredients subject to consultation)
It’s a hydroquinone-free formula, and I experienced no irritations or dryness whatsoever. I applied one pump for both of my cheeks where my spots are located, and it takes a few seconds for the product to spread and fully absorb. Not the most elegant of applications but it fits seamlessly in my current routine and I have no complaints.
Month 1: No noticeable skin changes. Maybe my cheeks looked a bit more glowy? No sensitivities either, and I was back to my usual vitamin c/retinol routine after a few days.
Month 2: Certain spots seem a little lighter and the glow is still there. At this point my skin type has transitioned from combo to dry, but the formula still feels fine on my skin.
Month 3: A slight improvement from month 2.
Obviously it’s hard to notice any changes day to day, but when you compare the results 3 months apart, you can definitely see some improvements!
Agency Dark Spot Formula Before & After*
While my dark spots are still visible, certain ones seem to have either faded or disappeared completely, I’m definitely blown away!
However you’ll also see that some spots seem to have gotten darker, which I believe is hormone related. I’m going through some health issues and my higher than usual estrogen levels can lead to an increase in melasma.
*As always, your results may vary.
Other Dark Spot Formulas I’ve Tried
I will say right off the bat that I did not see results with any of these with my stubborn melasma, but that’s just my own experience. If you have light sun spots or PIH, these could still be effective.
Kiehl’s Clearly Corrective Dark Spots Solution
Love the light serum texture and how gentle it felt, but that was it. I may try this one again to see if it works for overall skin brightening instead.
AXIS-Y Dark Spot Correcting Glow Serum
Also an elegant texture, feels hydrating too, but don’t expect it to do much on stubborn dark spots. This did improve my overall skin tone though!
Peter Thomas Roth PRO Strength Niacinamide Discoloration Treatment
Has the same lotion texture as Agency and features a 15% complex of Niacinamide, Tranexamic Acid, Kojic Acid, Alpha Arbutin and Pentapeptide, so you get some similar ingredients. Unfortunately I didn’t notice results with this one, but it’s probably the closest alternative to Agency.
Final Verdict
Pros
- Customized formula with research-backed ingredients to fit your specific skin type and needs.
- Seamlessly fits into any skincare routine.
- Access to a licensed dermatology provider to discuss your skincare concerns and progress!
- Visible results with consistent use!
Cons
- Available in the US only.
- Ingredients aren’t unique and some can be found in OTC products.
- Not the cheapest dark spot formula out there.
Scores & Summary
-
Ingredients
9/10
-
Packaging
8.5/10
-
Texture/Application
8.5/10
-
Performance
9/10
-
Price
8/10
As a big fan and long time user of Curology, I’m absolutely thrilled that they came up with Agency to address specifically anti-aging and dark spots – my two main skincare concerns! I love how easy it was to add the product to my routine and there were minimal conflicts with my existing products. But the most important factor always is results, and though it took time, I definitely saw them! There was a bit of setback due to hormonal issues but I’m confident that I’ll keep seeing improvements if I continue the treatment. I’m definitely a fan now!
Article Sources
To keep my content accurate and trustworthy, I rely on peer-reviewed studies, articles from reputable academic institutions, and quotes from certified healthcare professionals to back my claims.
“Hydrocortisone Topical: Uses, Side Effects, Interactions, Pictures, Warnings & Dosing – WebMD.” Webmd.com, 2022, www.webmd.com/drugs/2/drug-10402-859/hydrocortisone-topical/hydrocortisone-topical/details.
Saeedi, Majid, et al. “Kojic Acid Applications in Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Preparations.” Biomedicine & Pharmacotherapy, vol. 110, Feb. 2019, pp. 582–93, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.biopha.2018.12.006.
Verallo-Rowell VM;Verallo V;Graupe K;Lopez-Villafuerte L;Garcia-Lopez M. “Double-Blind Comparison of Azelaic Acid and Hydroquinone in the Treatment of Melasma.” Acta Dermato-Venereologica. Supplementum, vol. 143, Acta Derm Venereol Suppl (Stockh), 2022, https://doi.org/10.2340/000155551435861.
Baliña, Luis M., and Klaus Graupe. “The Treatment of Melasma 20% Azelaic Acid versus 4% Hydroquinone Cream.” International Journal of Dermatology, vol. 30, no. 12, Dec. 1991, pp. 893–95, https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-4362.1991.tb04362.x.
Farshi, Susan. “Comparative Study of Therapeutic Effects of 20% Azelaic Acid and Hydroquinone 4% Cream in the Treatment of Melasma.” Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, vol. 10, no. 4, Dec. 2011, pp. 282–87, https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1473-2165.2011.00580.x.
Soleymani, Samaneh, et al. “Implications of Grape Extract and Its Nanoformulated Bioactive Agent Resveratrol against Skin Disorders.” Archives of Dermatological Research, vol. 311, no. 8, May 2019, pp. 577–88, https://doi.org/10.1007/s00403-019-01930-z.
Boo, Yong Chool. “Human Skin Lightening Efficacy of Resveratrol and Its Analogs: From in Vitro Studies to Cosmetic Applications.” Antioxidants, vol. 8, no. 9, Aug. 2019, p. 332, https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox8090332.
Kim, Eunji, et al. “Skin Protective Effect of Epigallocatechin Gallate.” International Journal of Molecular Sciences, vol. 19, no. 1, Jan. 2018, p. 173, https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms19010173.
I had a terrible experience with the Agency Skincare Future Formula product and their customer service. I was on it for several months, and although I was breaking out worse than ever, they told me to continue using it. I finally went to a real dermatologist, and she said that they are likely using poorly compounded ingredients that may cause more issues than they solve. I had been on high concentration tretinoin before with no problems.
If you do try them and don’t see results in a couple of months, learn from my mistake and stop treatment immediately.
I’m shocked that they would push you to continue using something when you’re breaking out, that doesn’t seem right at all. But in the case where someone isn’t seeing results (without any adverse reactions), I would check with if Agency to see if they can improve my formula. I believe they check in each time before sending out a new bottle to see how you’re doing and if need any changes.
I’m late here but got my agency in few days ago but because of my super sensitive rosacea hot skin I knew not to try dark spot or future formula on same days. First night I did vanicream cleanser, vanicream moisture then future formula 0.05. Got a little red but not bad, was tolerable and looked fine for makeup next day! Next night I did the dark spot formula 4% hydroquinone, 4%kojac 3% azaleic and 1% resveratrol and within 1 hour I was hurting on fire and rushed to wash my face but could feel the Sting still during the night and woke up to a face still red and blotchy and needing healed.
You should definitely speak to your Agency healthcare provider to let them know. Were they aware of your sensitive skin conditions before prescribing your formula?
Hyperpigmentation is really hard to treat, mine is very stubborn too. Do you know the max percentage of Hydroquinone they would use?
I believe in the US the max allowed is 10%.