I feel like chemical exfoliants really exploded in the skincare scene these past few years. Now every brand is touting their latest and greatest exfoliant that promises to brighten, smooth, soften, and at this rate cure every disease under the sun. Yet here I am boldly proclaiming “stop exfoliating!“, and before you guys stone me, let me explain why.
First of all, this is based on my personal experience and stories I’ve read from similar people. As always, skincare is very much YMMV, but in a time when everyone is touting the benefits of exfoliating (heck I did it myself), I think it’s important to highlight the opposing view because in reality, exfoliating isn’t for everyone. Think you can keep an open mind? Read on!
Your skin and what exfoliating actually does to it
Most products like to extol the benefits of exfoliating like it was some magical elixir for all our skin problems. And the root of all those problems? Those pesky dead skin cells, which apparently we all have a thick layer of just sitting on our face that we must remove ASAP!
The top layer of our skin, made of corneocytes, are actually quite active, though they do shed naturally about every 28 days. This turnover process allows fresh cells, the keratinocytes, to get moved to the top and become new corneocytes. During this transformation, the keratinocyte essentially flatten itself, excrete its contents, which becomes the fatty acid, cholesterol, and ceramides that bind the corneocytes together and form the moisture barrier. And we all know how important our moisture barrier is!
A healthy moisture barrier. The corneocytes are tightly packed and held in place by the ceramides + cholesterol, and fatty acids. (source: MedPartner)
When using an exfoliant, whether it’s a physical scrub or an AHA like glycolic or lactic acid, you’re forcibly removing that very top layer and pushing the fresh keratinocytes to the top. So now you’re seeing these new happy cells, which naturally would be brighter smoother and just in better condition than the old ones you sloughed off. Life is good.
Meanwhile your skin is busy regenerating cells since you pushed everything ahead of schedule. No biggie, our skin doesn’t mind working overtime occasionally, but what happens when you increase the frequency? Eventually your skin won’t be able to keep up, the number of corneocytes and ceramides/lipids/fatty acids decrease, and you’re left with a compromised moisture barrier and all the symptoms that go along with it: dryness, tightness, roughness, and inflammation. Life is no longer good.
When our moisture barrier is compromised, our skin is prone to moisture loss and susceptible to inflammations from external elements.
A slippery slope to moisture barrier damage
Before I dived head first into the exfoliating trend, I had combination skin with absolutely no sensitivities. But I loved the instant results my AHA’s and scrubs were giving me, and since I didn’t experience any immediate redness or irritations, I kept increasing the frequency. At my peak I was using the Pixi Glow Tonic every night, using a physical scrub weekly, and using a strong chemical exfoliant every 2-3 days. Unless your skin is producing a ton more skin cells than it can naturally slough off, there’s really no reason why anyone should be exfoliating so often.
Eventually I started noticing some redness and dryness, so I’d stop for a few days, and once those symptoms were gone, I was back on it again. Rinse and repeat, until eventually I noticed that products that never irritated me before were suddenly making my skin red and itchy. My skin had become sensitive over the years, and the more I tried to achieve “better” skin with exfoliants, the worse my skin actually looked. My moisture barrier had been severely compromised, and I didn’t realize it until it was too late.
So I quit exfoliating.
Bye bye exfoliants
Yep, for the past 2.5 weeks I’ve held off on all exfoliants, chemical and physical, which the exception of the Tammy Fender Epi-Peel which I used only along my jawline since it had some texture. It’s ironic, because looking back it wasn’t like I had any serious skin issues could only be addressed by exfoliating. Yet by exfoliating, I introduced a bunch of new skin problems, which I’m now working extra hard to reverse.
How to recover from over-exfoliation
If you find yourself frequently dealing with skin sensitivities, dryness, roughness, tightness, or any signs of a compromised moisture barrier, here are my suggestions:
- Stop exfoliating. You need to stop damaging your skin and give it time to repair and regenerate. I’m going to keep this up for at least 28 days to match my skin turnover cycle. This includes physical scrubs, AHAs, and BHAs. Vitamin C is ok as long as it’s not ascorbic acid. Retinol actually isn’t an exfoliant, but it can cause similar side effects, so it’s best to stop or at the very least decrease the frequency significantly.
- Forget anti-aging and brightening products, just focus on hydration. While those products aren’t exfoliants, they can be irritating when your skin is in a compromised state. Instead layer on gentle hydrating products, because your skin will need that extra help to replenish the moisture loss.
- Replenish the ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids. Those are the glue that hold the corneocytes together and keep moisture in. Remember, keratinocytes essentially produce these components when becoming corneocytes, so when our skin can’t do this process fast enough, these component levels take a hit as well.
- Look soothing and repairing ingredients. Basically anything that will help your skin heal faster is your best friend. These will also help fight any inflammation that may occur while your barrier is compromised.
- Consider Vaseline and mineral oil your friends. I don’t know why these ingredients get such a bad rep as they’re fantastic non-comedogenic occlusives. Just make sure you don’t layer anything comedogenic underneath! When your moisture barrier is compromised, you’ll need the extra help to keep moisture in, and these 2 ingredients are among the best at this job.
- Keep your routine simple. The more products you add the more you risk potentially irritating your skin. Remember, your skin is extra sensitive right now, so give it space and don’t piss it off by throwing 20 different products at it. Imagine how you feel when you’re PMSing, and your significant other is trying to do 20 different things and you’re just like I CAN’T RIGHT NOW (or am I the only one that gets that way?)
- Develop better exfoliating habits for the future. You don’t need to quit exfoliating for the rest of your life, but the frequency needs to be dialed back. Like waaaay back. If our natural skin turnover rate is 28 days, wouldn’t it make sense for our manual exfoliation to match that? Food for thought.
During this self-imposed exfoliation ban, I’ve been following the above steps and using a select few hydrating and skin repairing products. The Nivea Creme is especially fantastic, with an occlusive formula similar to the $300+ La Mer, except it only costs $1 for the small tin. I use this on my cheeks which are especially prone to dryness, and it’s been a lifesaver. I’m also replenishing my ceramides with the Dr. Jart+ Ceramidin Liquid, while the Live Botanical Aer Balancing Whipped Oil and La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5 (a 2017 skincare favorite, full review here) both contain skin soothing + repairing ingredients. For hydration I’ve been really loving my custom Activist Skincare Hyaluronic Serum* (full review here) which now contains zinc for extra skin repairing powers, and of course, layering on the Avene Thermal Water generously.
The case for exfoliation
Despite the post title, I’m not saying that everyone should stop exfoliating indefinitely because it’s evil, because there are certainly people, generally those with oilier skin types, who can benefit from the occasional exfoliation (keyword occasional). Some people may also generate skin cells faster than they can naturally shed them, so it makes sense to get some help via exfoliation.
Lenny here could definitely use the help of an occasional exfoliation
Also, pay attention to the potency of exfoliants. If you’re going to use a high % AHA, you should definitely dial back on the frequency. And just because the % is low doesn’t mean it’s ok for daily use. Nor does it containing soothing + hydrating ingredients mean that the it won’t damage your skin. That’s like me handing you some laxatives and saying “Btw, there’s also some Imodium in there, so you’re all good”. Yeah, no, you’re still getting that diarrhea, or at the very least some painful toilet time.
Many of the results we crave (smooth glowing skin) can actually be solved by other means, for example making sure your skin is properly hydrated or by getting the proper nutritions internally. Sloughing off your skin because you don’t like the way it looks is only temporary fix, and one that can lead to more problems if you’re not careful.
Regardless of how we feel about exfoliation now, I think it’s important that we examine why we’re so eager to exfoliate and if our skin really needs it. Hopefully this post was a lot of food for thought!
TLDR;
Because this was a long ass post and everyone who read all the above deserves a cookie. But in case you didn’t, here’s the general gist:
- Contrary to what brands may claim, we don’t all have a thick layer of dead skin that needs to be removed ASAP.
- Our skin has a built in “exfoliation” system, and if ain’t broke, why fix it?
- Over-exfoliation can lead to a compromised moisture barrier, which can lead to all sorts of annoying skin issues – dullness, dryness, roughness…ironically all the issues you were trying to fix with exfoliation.
- Moisture barriers can be repaired, but you’re gonna have to scroll up and read the details there.
- Exfoliation isn’t evil and can be beneficials under the right circumstances and appropriate frequency.
- Brighter smoother skin is possible without exfoliation. Hydration is key!
Hope you all enjoyed this post, and let me know your thoughts on exfoliation and what your routine is! Have a great rest of the week!
This is a really interesting post! As someone with sensitive skin, it’s refreshing to see someone recommending a step back from chemical exfoliants. I always thought my skin looked better when I skipped that step!
alicered.co.uk
Such a great read and I definitely know that I have to strip back on exfoliating every few weeks because it gets too much for my skin. Now reading this it all makes sense. I could definitely not give up exfoliating but I think I need to reduce the frequency big time because when I had to stick to cleanse & hydrate routines last week, my skin couldn’t have looked and felt happier. Great tips as well, I will be sticking to those as best I can xxx
Hm, actually this makes a lot of sense! I was using the Schaf exfoliant about 2-3 times a week and my skin was still breaking out. Then I ran out and my skin started to clear up, but then I started using the Acure Brightening scrub and I’ve noticed that I’m breaking out again AND my skin has been super dry. I’m going to take a break from exfoliating and see if it makes a difference in the next couple weeks. After that I might do it weekly at most! Great information, I really enjoyed reading this!
http://www.sustainablysavvy.ca
Such an awesome read! I like exfoliating once or twice a week but if I see any signs of sensitivity I immediatelly stop. Plus I use oils and hydrating essences and moisturizers and masks. As you said the secret to awesome skin is pretty much hydration! I loved the post so much!
Love,
Olga from Myme
For someone who has a tendency to jump on bandwagons easily, this was a refreshing post to read! I tend to exfoliate a bit randomly, when I feel like my skin is really clogged or when I think I haven’t done it in a while. It probably isn’t the best system, but I’m seeing all these videos like “MY MOISTURE BARRIER IS RUINED – HOW I FIXED IT” so I’m a little gun shy anyway, lol. I do wish more people would talk about the importance of hydrated skin and what a difference it could make though!
Sam / My Beauty Cloud
Very informative post Jen! I definitely see where you are coming from. I think too much of anything is bad. I only exfoliate once a week. Lately, I haven’t been doing that (every two weeks). It works for me. Daily is excessive for any skin type. Great post!
http://www.averysweetblog.com/
Hm interesting. Luckily for me I don’t really use these much (if at all). I think the most I’ve used is the shower ones for your body (salt scrubs), don’t bother too much with the face. Something to keep in mind though!
You make some great points Jenny! I’m definitely trying to fix things using the internal route by cleaning up my diet (I’ve literally quit sugar and dairy completely). I feel so much better in general and I’m hoping my skin heals faster too! I agree that there’s been too much focus on exfoliation lately, I feel like 1/2 the pr offers I’ve gotten in the past few months have been for exfoliants — it feels like every skincare brand is trying to jump on that train!
You certainly made a strong case for/against exfoliation Jenny. I think as with all things, moderation is key and we should take a cue from the condition of our skin in order to decide how much and how to exfoliate. I actually stepped back from exfoliation awhile back because i had read that overdoing it can result in hyperpigmentation which is my biggest skincare concern. I generally just go once a week with my Drunk Elephant Babyfacial now.
Wow I had no idea! These are great points
Narhee | Made in Mauve
I have been worrying a lot about some people that seem to overexfoliate using chemical and mechanical exfoliatorsall together and I’m happy about reading your post here! I have a simple rule: when I’m using chemical exfoliation I never ever use any mechanical exfoliation on the same period of time. Also, I try to keep the days few during a week…Let’s say: 1-3 times a week depending on the strength of the chemical, keeping my skin happy inbetween with lipid-rich and hydrating products. I think, for example, that chemical exfoliators helps for flaking skin and blackheads, but if you have skin that works as it should you do not need any exfoliation. Thanks for the great article!
MissLaven from Berries in the Snow <3
What a wonderful post, Jenny! So informative and you are absolutely right. I guess, we tend to be a touch excessive when it comes to skincare. Doesn’t matter what part of it, but I often see people (or I do so myself) over-cleanse, over-exfoliate, over-moisturize. I am also amazed how some use a mix of five oils and ten serums altogether as part of their nighttime routine, when I (with super dry skin) can only tolerate one oil at a time! I must admit I can get a bit too carried away with my exfoliators too and knowing about the 28 day cycle will be a good reminder to take it easy xx
Listening to your skin more than listening to what brands tell you is the key. My skin is combination/oily and introducing chemical exfoliants improved it a lot. But as you said: in moderation! I either use a mild exfoliant about five times a week or a strong one once or twice a week. Less in winter, more in summer, and that is what works best for my skin.
The 28 days cycle as reference is helpful, but we need to keep in mind that it is an average estimation and hugely dependend on genetics, age and lifestyle. And, even though it may read like that in some publications (not here!), it isn´t a process that happens every 28 days, but rather a continuos process, which is why to me using a gentle exfoliant more often makes more sense than using a strong one every month. One swipe of pixi Glow Tonic will not get rid of all the top layer, but rather help loosen a few cells on top.
As we age, cells aren´t shed as easily, which often results in textured and dull skin. But as always there is no number we can put on it, like “above 35 you definitely need help”. It, again, comes down to genetics, lifestyle and other things.
My bottom line? I think we should all exfoliate, but how often is a very personal thing. My skin needs a lot of help, others need less, and if we all listen to our skins needs, like you recommend, we will figure out what works for us.
Oh, and of course I wholeheartedly agree: Exfoliation isn´t the solution to all skin issues. It helps target a specific concern, but just like the claim: “Every skin needs a moisturizer” is wrong, the claim: “Exfoliation will solve all your concerns” is wrong as well.
A very insightful and well-written post!
Anne|Linda, Libra, Loca
Thank you for the additional info Anne, and you raise some excellent points for why exfoliation can be beneficial! In the age where brands are telling each of us that we need all these different products, it’s more important than ever to listen our skin’s actual needs!
Another brilliantly written post, Jenny! I do exfoliate and I use a milder one these days and I find that my skin reacts better to it. I use a physical exfoliator once a week and chemical ones once every day if it’s Cosrx AHA/BHA toner and once every two days if it’s WishTrend 5% Mandelic Acid. I definitely noticed ore breakouts whenever I over do it so everything should be in moderation. xx
Shireen⎜Reflection of Sanity
Girl this post is a game-changer! I am sooo baffled. I bought the Clarins Exfoliant and never got to use because of the sensitivity it can bring to the skin if SPF isn’t used. But I’ve always felt a little hesitant of using such strong product. I usually never trust the hype and now I know why – you have A point. How can it be good to treat skin that regularly with strong acids and all that? Feels a bit too harsh for me but again it might work for older skins maybe? Love your points though!
Thanks for sharing!
http://www.desiringsme.com/
This is an incredibly well written post Jenny, as always! I’m one who can’t exfoliate as it breaks my skin out on top of other problems! Every single skincare counters and demos during PR events insist that I’m just doing something wrong. Look, I know my skin and I think I know when something isn’t right for me!
These days, I don’t exfoliate as much – I use gentle scrubs (like the ones from Lush) to slough off the dead cells without over-exfoliating!
P.S. Wasn’t aware of the 28 days cycle – this is really helpful!
Stephanie | theFantasia.com
Firstly is it true about Nivea? Really can it be compared to Lamer? Very interesting 🤔.
2nd You hit the nail on the head Jenny over exfoliating is actually an issue thanks to our cravings for baby smooth skin. I have naturally sensitive skin so have never been on the exfoliating train much. I exfoliate once a month but the number of people have have noticed having issues with their skin due to over exfoliation has increased. And some of them don’t even know it. I will be putting a link to this article on my Instastories for people to read this is great skin advice which equates to health care ‘smile’.
Esnath @prettypeachblossom.com
I don’t think it’s a 100% dupe, but I’d it’s 85% similar, since they use the same occlusive ingredients, mainly mineral oil and petrolatum. So in terms of preventing water loss they will provide very similar results, but at very different price points 😉 And thank you again for sharing this post, appreciate the support Esnath!
i’ve heard some people exfoliate 4 times a week and that kind of baffles me. even before i read about what you’ve written, i have had the feeling that over-exfoliating or exfoliating too often is bad. i have oily t-zone and normal cheeks so i love exfoliation but i only do it like once a week? because i prefer doing mask 3-4x / week (not sure if this is a good idea or not but i like it for my skin. i do clay mask and hydrating mask in a ratio of 2:2 or 3:1 per week, i guess) sometimes i change things up by exfoliating 2x/week and doing mask 2x/week to balance things out. i almost, almost over exfoliated once but i had to stop because i felt like the redness on my nose was getting worse. now i’m all about hydration (not moisture though. i heard that what oily skin needs is hydration, not moisture. i wonder how much of that is true)
speaking of exfoliation, i wanna stop using physical exfoliating scrub too. i feel like those granules aren’t ideal for me anymore. i want something softer thus resorting to aha bha peeling face wash instead (aka the hada labo tamagohada one)
This is a great post! I loved that you got into the science of it. Honestly, I see so many people who treat their skin so harshly without knowing it. Personally I tend to stay away from exfoliating scrubs and exfoliating masks all together, and then about once a week I will use an exfoliator that’s decently gentle. I couldn’t imagine what my skin would feel like if I did that three times a week! Yuck. I do think you should be using a toner quite frequently. I use one every other day, but only because when it’s 10pm I am too lazy haha.
-Emily http://www.coatandcoffee.com
Woah, who knew?! I think my skin is experiencing the same thing, which is funny cause I mentioned it in that clay masks post I did with the Kiehls turmeric mask making my skin burn when it didn’t happen when I first used it.
I used to exfoliate daily with a chemical exfoliator, but then I just got lazy and dialed it back to once weekly or biweekly. So far I haven’t noticed any significant changes, so that must be a good sign! It’s good to know my laziness is somewhat paying off, haha.
becky @ star violet
This was such an interesting read! I have to admit I absolutely love my exfoliators and retinols so the thought of skipping them fills me with horror. BUT, I do have persistent redness I can’t seem to shift so maybe I need a 28 day detox at some point to see the difference. I’m bookmarking this and will work my way up to setting aside my beloved acids for a month (eek!).
Amy
http://AMbeautyedit.com
I can totally see how and why constant exfoliators damage your moisture barrier. Eek! I only exfoliate 2-3 times a week and so I’m not super concerned, but this has definitely reminded me never to become a daily exfoliator! Thanks for the hugely informative post babe :) Have a fabulous weekend!
Gabrielle | A Glass Of Ice | Worldwide Giveaway: Hotel Chocolat Valentine’s Heart Chocolate Box! x
What an interesting read, I’ve never thought about it before. I just knew that we shouldn’t do it more than twice a week. Now I know why.
Mariya
http://www.brunetteondemand.com
This is such a great post and I’ve learnt a lot! I never knew exfoliating could damage our skin! I used to love exfoliating but these days it’s something I don’t really do. I loved this post and can’t wait to read more of your future blog posts! x
Cyber Mermaids | Alternative beauty, fashion and lifestyle blog
Such a great post Jenny and I couldn’t agree more. Thank you for raising awareness. Exfoliation isn’t for everybody. I think the most important lesson I learned along the way is to listen to my skin. I have sensitive fussy skin and exfoliating more than once a week (sometimes even once every two weeks) is just not gonna work for me. Loved the post, and of course your photography is always stunning! Well done!
~ Cat L.
http://www.CatsDailyLiving.com
I totally agree to your post! But I didn’t totally stop exfoliating. I only do it once or twice a month, depends on my breakout. And the rest of my skincare routine are all hydrating products. I notice my skin is much better when I focused on hydrating and aloe vera or water-based products :)
xx Alyssa | STYLE VANITY
I used to exfoliate all the time but accidentally I’ve decided to stop and from that time I use exfoliators once for like 1-2 weeks, I feel like my skin looks better when I don’t use strong chemical peelings or mechanical ones, I break out less often and my skin isn’t dry anymore. I think that people are so scared of Vaseline and Mineral Oil because they think it’s related to petroleum which they strongly connect to fuel and they are sure that both these substances are corrupted. I was bit in shock when all my friends who buy only natural products told me that vaseline is bad while other friend suggested me that vaseline can help me with my skin.
Interesting post. I do exfoliate but since I have sensitive skin and allergies I use natural exfoliants and mild chemical peel, but not often. I think it’s important to know your skin, we all have different skin types, and just like diets, all types/brands are not for everyone. I agree, the potency with some exfoliants are harsh and can damage your skin. I once used an exfoliant and it literally made my skin feel raw. I actually have minimised a lot of my skincare recently, which has helped my skin.
FASHION TALES
This is a bit scary Jenny! I can’t tell if I have more redness or not from physical exfoliating but I’ve been doing it every other day and sometimes everyday. I have really dry skin and I bet it’s the result of over exfoliating. I guess I’ll have to stop it to rebuild the barrier…I’m also using a vitamin C but it has L-Ascorbic Acid in it, which you recommended not using but it’s helping with my redness (what do???) should I just use it less frequently? And if so how many days a week would you recommend? I’m kinda freaking out with this one. One of my biggest insecurity is the redness on my face and I’m trying to fix that…Thank you for such an informative post!
Katherine|womanengineer.com
This is such a great informative post. I do exfoliate but I don’t do it as often as what I see and hear some people do and felt like I was perhaps doing something wrong. I agree on keeping things simple. A bit of exfoliation is ok and I don’t think I would stop – but everyday is not necessary.
I suppose though as bloggers we try so many different products and it can become difficult not to end up overdoing it!
Thanks for sharing x
franklyflawless.com
I really enjoyed this informative post. I’m not very knowledgeable with skincare and this was really helpful.
Jennifer | Mrs Q Beauty
Great post.
So handy.
xx
https://theonethattravels.wordpress.com/
Wow, I loved the infographic in the beginning and this all just makes sense. I don’t think I exfoliate that much but I am guilty of not moisturizing that much which may also lead to some of my dull skin problems. I do love a good exfoliant though and won’t do it as often now. Thanks for the information and I’m glad to have stopped by (coming over from Shireen and Kim’s blogs!)
I think many of us do tend to over exfoliate our skin way too much. I’ll admit I love me a good exfoliation but i due try and moderate it and not do it daily. Great post, it was super informative!
http://www.themakeupaficionado.com
Thanks for your article,
Indeed, too much peeling and exfoliator’s ingrédients everywhere even masked into some skin care products claiming brightness and whitening. Results on sensitive skins are pretty bad such as atopy, redness, itching…
We have to be careful on what we buy and try to decode ingredients list on each purchase. tough job but worth it !^^
This makes a lot of sense! When I was younger I almost obsessively exfoliated and think I did more harm than damage….I have found that coffee is good and works well for my skin type.
Hi Jenny,
great content, thank you so much for the advice, I’ve been looking for this kind of content everwhere! Do you have a recommendation for a gentle face wash, just water doesn’t work for me unfortunately. It leaves my skin with a dry and tight feeling :(
Hi Elli, I really like the Cerave Hydrating Cleanser (reviewed here), which is what I used when my skin was sensitive from tretinoin. I’d start with their small bottle to see if it works for you before committing to the large bottle. Other gentle cleansers I like are the Glossier Milky Jelly Cleanser, the H2O+ Hydration Sensitive Gel Cleanser, and the Holifrog Tashmoo Cleanser, but I honestly think you get the best value with the Cerave.
Another option you can try is cleansing with micellar water (which does need to be rinsed off afterwards!). The Bioderma Hydrabio (reviewed here was incredibly moisturizing and I actually used it as a morning cleanser.
No matter which one you try I hope it works for you!
Thank you so much!