Physical sunscreens, yay or nay? The Skin Actives Daily Defense Anti-Aging Day Cream SPF30 review
For as long as I’ve been a proponent of SPF, I’ve been partial to the more elegant texture of chemical sunscreens, particularly those from Asian brands. So for the first time in…10+ years, I’m using a Western brand physical sunscreen – the Skin Actives Daily Defense Anti-Aging Day Cream with SPF30 (what a mouthful) – and ready to share my thoughts on it.
- What is it
- In case the name wasn’t obvious enough, it’s an anti-aging day cream with 18% zinc oxide to provide broad spectrum UVA/UVB protection.
- How I use it
- As my am moisturizer + sunscreen on days when I’ll mostly be indoors.
- Best suited for
- Those who prefer a simpler routine and don’t mind the initial white cast. Also great for those who find chemical sunscreens irritating.
- Packaging
- An elegant and hygienic airless pump jar that dispenses the perfect amount each time. All moisturizers should come like this!
- Scent
- None
- Texture
- A bit runny like a lotion, but has the emollience and richness of a medium weight cream.
- Finish
- Shiny with initial white cast. The shine can be minimized with powder, and the whiteness goes away after a few minutes
- Available At
- Skin Actives – $35.40 for 1.7 fl oz
Highlighting the airless pump because it’s just fantastic
What’s a physical sunscreen?
For an in-depth guide to all things sunscreen and an introduction to the different filter filters, I highly recommend reading my ultimate sunscreen guide (shameless plug). But in a nutshell:
Physical filters work by reflecting UVA and absorbing UVB, while chemical filters absorb both UVA and UVB (source).
Despite some claims floating around the Internet, chemical filters do not need to be absorbed into our skin to be effective. All filters work at the top layer of our skin, though depending the on the formula of the sunscreen and filters used, some chemical ones can be absorbed into the skin and cause sensitivities or other issues. That’s why physical filters like zinc and titanium dioxide are typically recommended for sensitive skin, but the downside is that they have a heavier texture and leave a white cast.
When you’ve got too much physical sunscreen on
Not all physical sunscreens are icky
With a whopping 18% zinc oxide (a physical filter that offers broad spectrum UVA + UVB protection) and my past experience with Skin Actives moisturizers, I had my reservations about this one. But boy I was pleasantly surprised! While it’s by no means a light moisturizer, it wasn’t at all thick or difficult to spread. Even as a moisturizer without SPF, it’s a solid product, especially considering its key ingredients:
- Protein Solution with Glutaredoxin (GRX), Thioredoxin (TRX), and Superoxide Dismutase (SOD) – all 3 are antioxidants, and Skin Actives holds the patent for using this blend in the treatment and/or prevention of UV damage
- Sea Kelp Bioferment – an oil-free moisturizer that keeps the skin hydrated by forming a protective film over it (source)
- Porphyridium Polysaccharide – studies show this could help improve the skin’s barrier and overall texture + appearance (source)
- Fucoxanthin – an antioxidant from brown algae that can protect against UVB rays (source)
- Astaxanthin – a powerful antioxidant which can accelerate the skin’s healing potentials (source)
- Cholesterol derivatives – specifically Cholesteryl Oleyl Carbonate, Cholesteryl Nonanoate, and Cholesteryl Chloride which function as emollients and replenish the lipids in our skin
- Pomegranate Seed Oil – helps nourish and regenerate the skin. It also contains 66% punic acid, which itself has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties (source)
- Vitamin E – a potent antioxidant. The forms included are tocotrienols and tocopherols.
- Lycopene – another antioxidant that protects against UVB photodamage (source). Are you starting to see a pattern?
- Xanthophyll – aka lutein, a potent antioxidant that can also increase the skin’s hydration levels and absorb harmful(?) blue lights (source)
- R-Alpha Lipoic Acid – yet another antioxidant that can improve skin texture and improve signs of photodamage (source)
- Beta-Carotene – I’ll give you one guess. Yep, it’s an antioxidant too, and converts to retinyl esters in the skin, making it a precursor of vitamin a (source)
- Ferulic Acid – an antioxidant that can not only protects against UV rays, but also increases the protection abilities of vitamin e (source).
- Mangiferin – an antioxidant found in mango trees that can protect against UV rays (source)
- Sodium PCA – found naturally in our skin, it helps keep our skin retain moisture and stay hydrated.
View full ingredient list here.
As you can see Skin Actives specifically chose antioxidants that would work in synergy to provide additional UV protection (albeit mostly UVB). Their dedication to using research-proven ingredients is something I’ve always admired about the brand, and while in the past the texture of their products have been mediocre, I think they did a great job this time considering it’s a physical sunscreen + moisturizer in one. Of course they also included a lot of different emollients and emulsifiers, but nothing that raises any red flags. There is also alcohol in here, but it’s so far down the list that it shouldn’t be a concern for most people.
One minor complaint: I wish they included some form of vitamin c in here, considering its UV protection abilities, not to mention a gold standard when it comes to antioxidants. I’m guess it’s because Skin Actives already has 2 serums containing vitamin c, so they figured you could just layer that (or really any vitamin c serum) underneath this cream. But still, it would’ve been a nice addition.
Surprisingly this showed no white cast when applied on my hand
Great ingredients aside, this cream still leaves a white cast and shiny finish when you use the full amount on your face. On the bright side, the white cast does help me see if I’ve applied the product evenly, so it’s not a total loss. While it layers ok under makeup, I still prefer to wear this on days when I’ll be makeup free (ie. weekdays when I work from home).
After using this for the past several months, I haven’t noticed any darkening of my skin, sunspots, or any adverse reactions in general, suggesting it performs just as well as my past moisturizers and sunscreens but in one convenient step. I’ve also noticed that while my chemical sunscreens can really irritate my eyes when they gets in (I’m talking tears-inducing-want-to-rub-my-eyes out irritating), this one does not. The shiny finish isn’t ideal, but nothing some powdering can’t fix, so overall there really were no deal breakers for me.
However that’s not to say everyone will love the Skin Actives Daily Defense Anti-Aging Cream with SPF30. If you already have a go-to moisturizer, if you’re going to be outdoors a lot, if you have oily skin, or if you need a clear finish for makeup application, this isn’t for you. But if you want to simplify your morning routine, prefer the gentleness of zinc oxide over chemical SPF filters, or just need a good SPF for everyday use, this is an option worth considering.
Skin Actives Daily Defense Anti-Aging Day Cream SPF30
- Packaging9/10
- Ingredients9/10
- Texture/Application8.5/10
- Performance8.5/10
- Price8/10
This really grew on me the more I used it, and would definitely have been included in my top 5 picks of Skin Actives products post if it was released back then! While I won't repurchase this immediately as there are other sunscreens and moisturizers I'd like to try, I'd be more than happy to add this back to my routine in the future. It also gives me hope that not all physical sunscreens are heavy, and I'd definitely be open to trying other zinc oxide based products moving forward.
I hope you found this review helpful, and let me know if there are any physical sunscreens you enjoy as this one has definitely converted me to a zinc oxide fan!
Well, I’ve learnt a lot here. I’ll admit, I didn’t even know the difference between chemical and pysical sunscreen before and actually still couldn’t tell you what the Biore one I use is lol! I’ll have to take another peek at the ingredients to see if I can work it out now with this new knowledge you’ve gifted me with xxx
I’ve never been particularly elegant with my sunscreen, with finding the right formula or applying it even when I’m staying indoors, but this looks like a great option for a physical sunscreen. A bit too pricey for me (I’m moving on to the classic Missha safe block essence) but like you, I think all moisturizers should come with that airless pump jar. It’s sanitary and easy to get a perfect amount!
Sam / My Beauty Cloud
I know little about the differences between chemical and physical sunscreens but it’s because I am not fussed about them. Currently I am really loving my Dermalogica Age Smart SPF50 moisturizer + sunscreen but it’s bloody pricey to repurchase in the future. LOL!
Shireen⎜Reflection of Sanity
Looks like a nice product, just in time as I’m looking for a new sunscreen.
http://www.busyandfab.com
I’m so clueless about the difference between physical and chemical sunscreens, but all I know was that I ordered a biodegradable sunscreen for my honeymoon to Mexico because it was required if you wanted to swim in Xcaret (one of their parks) since it was better for the environment and didn’t harm the animals and coral reefs!
Hannah the Mad Dog
It’s a shame this is no good for oily skin as I’d love to try a physical sunscreen – I haven’t yet as my skin is fairly sensitive and I’m always wary of trying new things without a recommendation first. Even though we wear a lot of sunscreen here!
Hope you’re having a good start to your week. I’m busy, but not as much as last week, so that’s nice! :)
Away From The Blue Blog
It’s always the whitest that puts me off sunscreen and I prefer something that dries and finishes clear. That said, sometimes those ones don’t necessarily provide the best protection x
franklyflawless.com
I usually prefer a mixture or chemical sunscreens in my products, to avoid that heavy feeling. We in Europe are lucky that a broad variety of spf is available, that makes finding the perfect one much easier.
Anne – Linda, Libra, Loca
Hm seems pretty good! Might have to try this sometime!
I learned the difference between chemical & physical sunscreens at an IT Cosmetics Masterclass. I didn’t know! LOL I’m making the switch to physical sunscreen this year. I want to try Supergoop. This one sounds good.
http://www.averysweetblog.com/
I have to say that I keep going back and forth between chemical and physical sunscreens. I tend to prefer the lighter feel of chemical sunscreens but feel better about using physical ones since they generally have cleaner ingredients but there’s the dreaded white cast to worry about. This one actually sounds pretty good and I love the packaging.
I prefer physical filters since my skin is sensitive but if I can’t find anything I might use chemical one. This cream looks really interesting and I feel like I might like it, the air pump is a good idea :)
This sounds like a good sunscreen, I wish I could use this. I’m really picky with sunscreen because most of it breaks me out easily due to my Zinc allergy.
xx Alyssa | STYLE VANITY
Thanks for your review. I learned more about the chemical composition of sunscreens. Or at least his one. It really looks interesting and I actually don’t mind the initial white cast. :)
xoxo,
Gelleesh.com
I have actually been using both, physical and chemical sunscreens. I have several allergies so I have to always look closely to what I put on my skin. However, I currently use physical sunscreens because my skin seems to love them more as far as non-irritant and ingredient-wise. Thanks for sharing!
FASHION TALES
I’ve gotta be honest, I don’t even think I knew physical sunscreens existed (or if I did, I didn’t know much of the difference, LOL). Super interesting to read about, though! I probably wouldn’t go for this one, as I’m either applying makeup on top or I’m outside for a large chunk of time… but it still sounds like a really solid product.
Kathryn • simplykk.com
I always learn something new after reading your wonderful, well-written reviews Jenny! I must say I always get overwhelmed/confused by all the sunscreen options out there; I also hate how some of them bunch up or move around when I apply make-up. That being said, I think the one you’ve reviewed has a great list of ingredients. I would give it a shot!
I haven’t really play around with suncreens, so I’m not sure which i would prefer. This post was very helpful.
Jennifer | Mrs Q Beauty
My sunscreen knowledge is pretty bad, so I was happy to educate myself a little bit with your post! I didn’t know how different physical sunscreens can be. I think the oily finish would put me off, just because my skin is ridiculously greasy as it is, so I don’t really need any extra shine. Really in-depth review lovely, I really like your style and how you’ve outlined everything! Thank you for sharing. <3 xoxo
Kay
http://shoesandglitter.com
Wow – loved your detailed explanation of these! So interesting – thanks for sharing!
xo, Emily | http://www.East91Blog.com
That sounds interesting, and quite useful.
http://sugarcoatedbears.blogspot.com/
Okay, this was really interesting! Mostly because now I know a ton about sunscreen! Haha. I had no idea there was a ‘physical’ sunscreen. You are always so good at explaining things and being thorough. I always learn so much from your blog! I would definitely give this one a go. I love the La Roche Posay sunscreen line though. So you’ll have to pry that from my cold dead fingers first! ;p
-Emily http://www.coatandcoffee.com
sunscreens are so intimidating to me, lol – a lot of the ones I’ve tried I don’t really like, with the exception of the biore aqua rich one (besides the fact that it has a pretty high alcohol content). I’ve debated getting a moisturizer with spf for the days I’m mostly indoors, too – I can be SO lazy about putting sunscreen on, especially when I’m indoors.
becky @ star violet
Totally agree about the pump jar design, I wish all moisturisers had that function. The packaging is beautifully sleek and 8.6 is one fabulous rating! Also, LOVE your logo/header design by the way, so pretty.
Gabrielle | A Glass Of Ice x
Sounds like an awesome sunscreen, I usually have oilier skin during the summer but now that it’s winter and my skin is dryer I would love to try this!!! Thanks for the awesome, detailed review!!!
Love,
Olga from Myme
This is such a great post! I’ve found that if I’m out and about I try to skip makeup and just opt for a sunscreen as my skin get so oily (even in winter) – I might need to try this one!
Laura
Black Coffee Beautiful
I SPF everything and rarely go without sunscreen any time even if I know there will me no sun. I love how detailed your review is btw
Lyosha
Inside and Outside Blog