I’ve tried several popular acid toners these past few years, from the iconic Pixi Glow Tonic (a supposed dupe of the BR Lotion P50) to the K-beauty version By Wishtrend Mandelic Acid 5% Skin Prep Water, but none really sold me until I started using the Biologique Recherche Lotion P50W.
Overview
What is it
A part of the famous Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 range, P50W is a toner, exfoliator, hydrator, and rejuvenator specially formulated for sensitive and acne prone skin.
Best suited for
Sensitive skin and/or acne-prone skin that struggle with stronger exfoliants but still want something effective.
Things to note
Capsicum Frutescens Fruit Extract, aka Cayenne Pepper extract, contains capsaicin which can be a skin irritant. But according to Dr. Nicholas Perricone, it can also increase blood circulation and improve skin tone and firmness. Arnica Montana Flower Extract can was found to be an irritant in one study1, but other tests2 found no signs of skin sensitivities. Lastly this is an acid toner with low pH, which by nature can be irritating. But otherwise alcohol-free, fragrance-free, and paraben-free.
Packaging
A white plastic bottle with a label design that looks like it hasn’t changed since the 70’s. It’s not the prettiest thing, but the retro aesthetic grows on you.
Scent
Sour, like vinegar, probably because it does contain vinegar. It’s definitely the most repulsive smelling product in my stash (tied with drool-scented SK-II FTE), but luckily it’s not too strong and dissipates quickly.
Texture
Like water. Stinky water.
Finish
A natural finish with no noticeable shine, stickiness, or stinky-ness (thank God).
Where to buy
$28 for 1.7oz, $67 for 5.1oz at Toska Spa, Rescue Spa, and Vicki Morav
Ingredient Highlight: Why the Lotion P50W stands out
Most of the acid toners out there use glycolic acid, which one of the most effective and researched AHA (alpha hydroxy acids – water soluble ingredients that can remove dead skin cells from our skin’s surface) out there.
Unfortunately after trying out so many exfoliants, I’ve come to the conclusion that my skin just doesn’t tolerate glycolic acid and prefers lactic acid. Here’s a quick comparison of the two:
In addition to lactic acid, Lotion P50W features gluconolactone, a PHA (polyhydroxy acid) that can also help remove dead skin cells. It has the same benefits as lactic acid, but has much larger molecules, meaning it’s even gentler!
The combination of the two means you have an exfoliant that is gentler and more moisturizing than traditional AHA/BHA blends.
Sulfur is an interesting ingredient that we rarely see in exfoliants, but if you’ve tried those pink powder blemish treatments that smells like trash, you’ve used sulfur before. It’s a great anti-inflammatory + antibacterial ingredient, making it suitable for acne-prone skin. While I don’t get breakouts often, I do like having this extra bit of protection to keep acne at bay!
Vinegar is basically a 5% acedic acid solution from fermented ethanol. While not a common ingredient, it does have some anti-bacterial and anti-microbial properties3.
Water, Gluconolactone, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Propylene Glycol, Lactic Acid, Ethoxydiglycol, Magnesium Chloride, Malic Acid, Vinegar, Phytic Acid, Citric Acid, Quillaja Saponaria Bark Extract, Horseradish Root Extract, Capsicum Frutescens Fruit Extract, Arnica montana Flower Extract, Sulfur, Allantoin, Sodium Salicylate, Serine, Urea, Sorbitol, TEA-Lactate, Sodium Lactate, Sodium Benzoate
How to use it
- Exfoliating toners should be used immediately after cleansing on dry skin, before all your other skincare products.
- A dime sized amount is enough for my face and I gently pat it into my skin until absorbed.
- For a stronger exfoliation, apply to a cotton pad and gently wipe in an upwards motion.
- At most I use this once a day in the evenings, skipping it if I’m using other actives like prescription tretinoin.
- Always apply sunscreen the next day!
Experience + Results
Unlike past acid toners, the Lotion P50W did not sting on application, which is already a huge winning point for me. While dermatologists say the stinging is a sign that the product is working, I prefer my skincare routine feel pleasant instead of painful.
Despite its gentleness, I noticed results within a few days: my skin was smoother, more refined, and radiant. It’s similar to the effects I first experienced with the SK-II First Treatment Essence, but much quicker and more noticeable (and less expensive).
Unfortunately I would still get the occasional breakouts, so I’m not sure if the sulfur helps with prevention, but my breakouts do heal faster.
I’ve been using this for 2+ months now, and my overall skin texture and luminosity has improved to the point where I’m comfortable going foundation free again.
I shared my routine on Instagram recently and I’m sure every product contributed to the great results, but the Lotion P50W was definitely the heavy hitter here.
A couple things to keep in mind to get the most out of your Lotion P50W (or any acid toner):
- Moisturize, moisturize, moisturize! Using products with plenty humectants and emollients can help avoid flaking and inflammation. I love layering the Laneige Cream Skin Refiner after this, the two together are perfection.
- Don’t use it with any other exfoliants. That means no retinol, no other acid toners, no vitamin c in the form of ascorbic acid, and no physical scrubs on the same day. If you’re just starting out it might be best to avoid other exfoliants completely and let your skin rest a day between uses. The danger of overexfoliation is very real, and the damage is not worth the benefits.
- Sunscreen is a must. Acids make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so it’s even more crucial that you wear a sunscreen with UVA and UVB protection, and make sure you apply the correct amount! I have a big post all about sunscreen, and there’s also a sunscreen recommendations post if you need a good one!
Now Biologique Recherche has 4 different versions of their acid toner, and Lotion P50W is the gentlest of the 4, so I recommend starting with that if you’re new to exfoliating or just prefer something gentle. I also have the P50V which is for mature/dry skin and will be trying that next!
Final Verdict
- Packaging7.5/10
- Ingredients9/10
- Texture/Application10/10
- Performance9.5/10
- Price6.5/10
If you're struggling to find an acid toner or exfoliant that's gentle and effective, this is it. Given that I actually swore off exfoliating for a while, I'm seriously impressed to find an acid toner that's good enough to make me want to commit to it regularly. I also love that Biologique Recherche has multiple versions of their lotions, so while the P50W is perfect for me, you might find a different version more suitable for your skincare needs! Their products are sold through spas, so before purchasing online you can easily get recommendations from an esthetician, which I highly recommend. Start with the small bottles, you won't be disappointed!
Article Sources
To keep my content accurate and trustworthy, I rely on peer-reviewed studies, articles from reputable academic institutions, and quotes from certified healthcare professionals to back my claims. No woo-woo clickbait nonsense here!
Hofmann, Ute, et al. “A Sensitive Sensor Cell Line for the Detection of Oxidative Stress Responses in Cultured Human Keratinocytes.” Sensors, vol. 14, no. 7, June 2014, pp. 11293–307, https://doi.org/10.3390/s140711293.
“Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Arnica Montana Extract and Arnica Montana.” International Journal of Toxicology, vol. 20, no. 2, Jan. 2001, pp. 1–11, https://doi.org/10.1080/10915810160233712.
Nagoba, B. S., et al. “Acetic Acid Treatment of Pseudomonal Wound Infections – a Review.” Journal of Infection and Public Health, vol. 6, no. 6, Dec. 2013, pp. 410–15, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jiph.2013.05.005.
Malaika
Monday 15th of March 2021
I’m 24 years old with sensitive skin. Will P50W lotion be harsh for me? As it’s an overnight treatment. And will my skin get thin in the future? It would be great if you could help me out, I’m really confused
Jenny
Monday 15th of March 2021
The P50W is the most gentle of the Biologique exfoliation lotions and was made for sensitive skin, but with that said, any type of actives can be irritating depending on your current skin conditions. If you do want to try this I would take it really slow - start using maybe once a week and build up your tolerance from there. Also start with the travel sized bottle. Since these are sold by esthetic spas, you can email them for more information if you're uncertain.
As for thinning the skin, all exfoliating products will "thin" the top layer of your skin because it speeds up the removal of that dead layer of cells. However your overall skin structure doesn't change. As long as you're not overexfoliating and compromising your skin's moisture barrier you should be ok!
Lisa H
Saturday 25th of January 2020
Great post! On the days you do not use the P50W are you using a Retin A? I also use both and did find my skin was looking parched when I used them on alternate days. Thinking I should scale back on one of them during the week. What do you think? three days with the Retin A and two days with the P50W in a week, or something like that! I do like the results yet now I'm not sure if it is the P50W or the Tretinoin Retin A that is making my skin look better. I do think the P50W does make my skin look smoother; more glass-like. Love to hear your thoughts on frequency using both products. Thanks again for sharing!
Jenny
Wednesday 29th of January 2020
Thank you! I do not use both on the same day as that would be too strong for my skin and I don't want to risk overexfoliation. I think it's always best to start slow, and you can always increase the frequency after a few weeks when your skin has had time to adjust.
So for me I've actually scaled down to Retin A on 2 nights, P50W on 1 night, and Vitamin C on 1 night since my skin is drier in the winter. For me I feel like P50W delivers more immediate results, but Retin A works both on the surface and deeper levels to stimulate collagen production, so you won't see the results until after a month or even 2. Hope this helps!
Anh Than
Tuesday 3rd of December 2019
Hello,
Thank you for your thoughtful review of this product. I was a bit concerned since I'm currently using Curology as well. When you were saying that do not use this when using Curlogy, does it mean that I cannot use Curlogy with this product at the same time or I can use P50W on one day and Curology on the other day? Thank you!
Jenny
Tuesday 3rd of December 2019
Hi, I personally would not use them in the same routine in case of overexfoliation. I prefer to err on the side of caution, so I'll use curology one day and P50W on the other days.
Via Singh
Wednesday 15th of May 2019
This brand is new to me, but this lotion sounds interesting. I love using AHAs in my skincare and regular use just transforms the skin. I like the detail review Jenny. :-) I am learning so much
Via | http://glossnglitters.com
Jenny
Wednesday 15th of May 2019
Thanks for reading Via! I used to be wary of AHA's, but now that I've found a gentle one for my skin type it''s become an essential in my routine!
Shireen L. Platt
Sunday 12th of May 2019
I finally found a SA close to me who is selling this toner but it's expensive! Ugh! I am so hesitant to spend so much money on it because my skin doesn't need the extra help and normal exfoliating toner has done wonders for my skin. Maybe when I am 45 and transformed into an old wrinkly hag, I will then take the plunge. LOL!
Jenny
Wednesday 15th of May 2019
Lol I think you might need to wait another 20+ years then because you are nowhere near looking like a hag! I didn't buy the full-sized products either because of the price, but their smaller size lasts a surprisingly long time! I've had mine for a few months now and still have a lot of product left!