I’ve tried several popular acid toners these past few years, from the iconic Pixi Glow Tonic (a supposed dupe of the BR Lotion P50) to the K-beauty version By Wishtrend Mandelic Acid 5% Skin Prep Water, but none really sold me until I started using the Biologique Recherche Lotion P50W.
- What is it
- A part of the famous Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 range, P50W is a toner, exfoliator, hydrator, and rejuvenator specially formulated for sensitive and acne prone skin.
- How I use it
- About 2-3 times a week at night immediately after cleansing on dry skin. I pour some into a cotton pad and gently pat across my face, avoiding the eye area. I do not use this when I’m using Curology, a physical scrub, or any other chemical exfoliant.
- Best suited for
- Sensitive skin types or anyone trying chemical exfoliants for the first time
- Ingredients
- Water, Gluconolactone, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Propylene Glycol, Lactic Acid, Ethoxydiglycol, Magnesium Chloride, Malic Acid, Vinegar, Phytic Acid, Citric Acid, Quillaja Saponaria Bark Extract, Horseradish Root Extract, Capsicum Frutescens Fruit Extract, Arnica montana Flower Extract, Sulfur, Allantoin, Sodium Salicylate, Serine, Urea, Sorbitol, TEA-Lactate, Sodium Lactate, Sodium Benzoate (ingredient analysis here)
- Irritants
- Capsicum Frutescens Fruit Extract, aka Cayenne Pepper extract, contains capsaicin which can be a skin-irritant. But according to Dr. Nicholas Perricone, it can also increase blood circulation and improve skin tone and firmness. Arnica montana Flower Extract can was found to be an irritant in one study, but other tests found no signs of skin sensitivities. Lastly this is an acid toner with low pH, which by nature can be irritating. But otherwise alcohol-free, fragrance-free, and paraben-free.
- Packaging
- A white plastic bottle with a label design that looks like it hasn’t changed since the 70’s. It’s not the prettiest thing, but it grows on you.
- Scent
- Sour, like vinegar, probably because it does contain vinegar. It’s definitely the most repulsive smelling product in my stash, but luckily it’s not too strong and goes away once you apply it.
- Texture
- Like water. Stinky water.
- Finish
- A natural finish with no noticeable shine, stickiness, or stinky-ness, thank God.
- Available At
- $28 for 1.7oz, $67 for 5.1oz at Toska Spa, Rescue Spa, and Vicki Morav
Why the Lotion P50W stands out
Most of the acid toners out there use glycolic acid, which one of the most effective and researched AHA (alpha hydroxy acids – water soluble ingredients that can remove dead skin cells from our skin’s surface) out there. Unfortunately after trying out so many exfoliants, I’ve come to the conclusion that my skin just doesn’t tolerate glycolic acid and prefers lactic acid. Here’s a quick comparison of the two:
In addition to lactic acid, Lotion P50W features gluconolactone, a PHA (polyhydroxy acid) that can also help remove dead skin cells. It has the same benefits as lactic acid, but has much larger molecules, meaning it’s even gentler! The combination of the two means you have an exfoliant that is gentler and more moisturizing than traditional AHA/BHA blends.
Sulfur is an interesting ingredient that we rarely see in exfoliants, but if you’ve tried those pink powder blemish treatments that smells like trash, you’ve used sulfur before. It’s a great anti-inflammatory + antibacterial ingredient, making it suitable for acne-prone skin. While I don’t get breakouts often, I do like having this extra bit of protection to keep acne at bay!
Experience + Results
Unlike past acid toners, the Lotion P50W did not sting on application, which is already a huge winning point for me. While dermatologists say the stinging is a sign that the product is working, I prefer my skincare routine feel pleasant instead of painful.
Despite its gentleness, I noticed results within a few days: my skin was smoother, more refined, and radiant. It’s similar to the effects I first experienced with the SK-II First Treatment Essence, but much quicker and more noticeable (and less expensive). Unfortunately I would still get the occasional breakouts, so I’m not sure if the sulfur helps with prevention, but my breakouts do heal faster.
Most useless texture shot ever? I swear this is the Lotion P50W and not water.
I’ve been using this for 2+ months now, and my overall skin texture and luminosity has improved to the point where I’m comfortable going foundation free again. I shared my routine on Instagram recently and I’m sure every product contributed to the great results, but the Lotion P50W was definitely the heavy hitter here.
A couple things to keep in mind to get the most out of your Lotion P50W (or any acid toner):
- Moisturize, moisturize, moisturize! Using products with plenty humectants and emollients can help avoid flaking and inflammation. I love layering the Laneige Cream Skin Refiner after this, the two together are perfection.
- Don’t use it with any other exfoliants. That means no retinol, no other acid toners, no vitamin c in the form of ascorbic acid, and no physical scrubs on the same day. If you’re just starting out it might be best to avoid other exfoliants completely and let your skin rest a day between uses. The danger of overexfoliation is very real, and the damage is not worth the benefits.
- Sunscreen is a must. Acids make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so it’s even more crucial that you wear a sunscreen with UVA and UVB protection, and make sure you apply the correct amount! I have a big post all about sunscreen, and there’s also a sunscreen recommendations post if you need a good one!
Now Biologique Recherche has 4 different versions of their acid toner, and Lotion P50W is the gentlest of the 4, so I recommend starting with that if you’re new to exfoliating or just prefer something gentle. I also have the P50V which is for mature/dry skin and will be trying that next!
Final Verdict
Biologique Recherche Lotion P50W
- Packaging7.5/10
- Ingredients9/10
- Texture/Application10/10
- Performance9.5/10
- Price6.5/10
If you're struggling to find an acid toner or exfoliant that's gentle and effective, this is it. Given that I actually swore off exfoliating for a while, I'm seriously impressed to find an acid toner that's good enough to make me want to commit to it regularly.
I also love that Biologique Recherche has multiple versions of their lotions, so while the P50W is perfect for me, you might find a different version more suitable for your skincare needs! Their products are sold through spas, so before purchasing online you can easily get recommendations from an esthetician, which I highly recommend. Start with the small bottles, you won't be disappointed!
Have you tried the Biologique Recherche P50 lotions before, or anything from this brand? I have their cleanser and mask on my wishlist as well, they’re pricey but every review I’ve read so far as been positive!
Haven’t heard of this brand before! Sounds interesting
Candice x
natalyaamour.com
It’s been around for 40+ years now but it’s recently become popular again, with good reasons! :D
As i’m new to trying chemical exfoliants of any kind, this sounds like an ideal option! It’s nice to have my eyes opened to cult classics in the skincare world as well, as it’s a universe I’m becoming more and more interested in :) Hope you’re having a lovely week so far!
aglassofice.com x
Yay I hope you’ll get a chance to try this, it’s really lovely and has been around since the 70’s! Hope you’re having a great week too!
Love that this toner is gentle! This is a wonderful review and I need to check this out soon.
https://www.kathrineeldridge.com
Thank you! Definitely a great one if you find other acid toners too harsh!
I need to try this asap! Awesome post x
Adventures in May | Miss Nev
Thank you! Hope you’ll love it as much as I do if you get it!
Such a helpful post! Very good review and in depth. I’ve never heard of this brand but it sounds wonderful! Thanks for sharing.
xo, Maria
https://www.miamiamine.com/
Thanks for reading Maria! The brand has been around for a while, but only became popular again recently!
This is amazing
xx
http://closettostreet.com/2019/04/22/hormonal-acne/
well, I see the product suits you. Thanks for sharing
https://www.melodyjacob.com/2019/05/orange-photography-health-benefits-of.html
I really love lactic acid as a chemical peel and have been using it for a while now. the lotion sounds actually so good.
❤︎
http://www.elenaisabelle.com
I really like it, but if you use lactic acid already in peels, you might find Lotion P50W weak in comparison. It might work great as a daily toner for you though!
This sounds like a great product!!
Jennifer
Effortlessly Sophisticated
It really is, definitely recommend trying it out!
This has been on try list for ages but I still haven’t pulled the trigger yet. Your review was very enlightening. Thanks Jenny! Good to know that it worked so well for you and it didn’t sting and or smell horrendously bad. There are so many versions of it that I think when I’m ready to go for it, I’ll just have to go to Rescue Spa in person and get a recommendation on which one would be right for my skin.
Okay I need this!
x Lisa | lisaautumn.com
I admit I am a bit confused by the different BR P50 versions, but I really want to try them in the future at some point. Just from reading here I don’t think that pixi Glow Tonic is a dupe for this one. I mean, both are gentle acid toners, but that is where the similarities end.
Linda, Libra, Loca: Beauty, Baby and Backpacking
I love that you listed what is inside, because I find myself looking at those on the bottles of anything I look at for my beauty routine. :) This is such a great review. http://www.bauchlefashion.com/2019/05/5-ways-chain-shoulder-bag-upgrades-your.html
i love the ingredients of this lotion ! i’d like to try it for sure!
Everything is beautiful! I have to try the products of this brand!
http://www.recklessdiary.ru
I’ve wanted to try this toner forever! Yes the whole buying through spas though definitely deterred me though I feel like I might have found one site that sold it directly. I should definitely try to find an esthetician here.
This was a great read. How come I have never heard about this gem before? I do not mind an odd scent as long as results are there and it seems like this was a wonderful discovery. I mean, don’t we all want to go foundation-free? Count me in! xx
Naya
http://www.nayatilly.com
I always find your reviews so helpful Jenny! I have always got on great with Pixi’s Glow tonic but as I have sensitive skin I’m wondering if this would be a better fit. I can look past the vinegar smell if it does the trick haha xx
I hear sensitive skin and I’m IN! I vaguely remember this brand name and so it’s lovely to know more about it :)
aglassofice.com x
I haven’t tried their lotions or really anything by this brand. I like your review!
http://www.fashionradi.com
This is a good read. Thank you for sharing
new post
https://www.melodyjacob.com/2019/05/summer-clothes-vacation-outfits-dresses.html
I have always been curious about this product.. thanks fro explaining and reviewing in details… my skin doesn’t tolerate too many chemicals and acids so I try to keep my skincare routine simple … This toner sounds great to start with… ❤️
I haven’t heard of this brand before but it sounds really good :)
xx Alyssa | STYLE VANITY
I’m not entirely confident about chemical exfoliation because I’m new to it and I don’t want to mess up my relationship with my skin now. But it’s great to know about products such as this because they might come in handy. Thank you for sharing your review about this.
Only Yesterday
Thanks for sharing me Jenny! Looks like a simple and chic brand.
The vinegar scent sounds interesting however great all the same to hear that you enjoyed the brand.
Laura xo
http://www.shehearts.net
LOVE how thorough your review is – would love to try this stuff out!
xx,
-Lauren
Thanks so much for reading! Hope you’ll love it as much as I do if you try it!
I need to try this
Great review.
xx
https://theonethattravels.wordpress.com/
9.5/10 performance is pretty good, not to mention the good ingredients it comes with. I’d love to try this. Thanks for sharing dear!
Jessica | notjessfashion.com
I finally found a SA close to me who is selling this toner but it’s expensive! Ugh! I am so hesitant to spend so much money on it because my skin doesn’t need the extra help and normal exfoliating toner has done wonders for my skin. Maybe when I am 45 and transformed into an old wrinkly hag, I will then take the plunge. LOL!
Lol I think you might need to wait another 20+ years then because you are nowhere near looking like a hag! I didn’t buy the full-sized products either because of the price, but their smaller size lasts a surprisingly long time! I’ve had mine for a few months now and still have a lot of product left!
This brand is new to me, but this lotion sounds interesting. I love using AHAs in my skincare and regular use just transforms the skin. I like the detail review Jenny. :-) I am learning so much
Via | http://glossnglitters.com
Thanks for reading Via! I used to be wary of AHA’s, but now that I’ve found a gentle one for my skin type it”s become an essential in my routine!
Hello,
Thank you for your thoughtful review of this product. I was a bit concerned since I’m currently using Curology as well. When you were saying that do not use this when using Curlogy, does it mean that I cannot use Curlogy with this product at the same time or I can use P50W on one day and Curology on the other day? Thank you!
Hi, I personally would not use them in the same routine in case of overexfoliation. I prefer to err on the side of caution, so I’ll use curology one day and P50W on the other days.
Great post! On the days you do not use the P50W are you using a Retin A?
I also use both and did find my skin was looking parched when I used them on alternate days. Thinking I should scale back on one of them during the week. What do you think? three days with the Retin A and two days with the P50W in a week, or something like that! I do like the results yet now I’m not sure if it is the P50W or the Tretinoin Retin A that is making my skin look better. I do think the P50W does make my skin look smoother; more glass-like. Love to hear your thoughts on frequency using both products. Thanks again for sharing!
Thank you! I do not use both on the same day as that would be too strong for my skin and I don’t want to risk overexfoliation. I think it’s always best to start slow, and you can always increase the frequency after a few weeks when your skin has had time to adjust.
So for me I’ve actually scaled down to Retin A on 2 nights, P50W on 1 night, and Vitamin C on 1 night since my skin is drier in the winter. For me I feel like P50W delivers more immediate results, but Retin A works both on the surface and deeper levels to stimulate collagen production, so you won’t see the results until after a month or even 2. Hope this helps!